Serralunga Barolos

Now that’s a beautiful thing isn’t it. Amen.

When you combine a good cause with some of Serralunga’s finest Barolos and Levi Dalton you call it a win, win situation (or is it wine, win?).  On a recently chilly New York City night, a group of willing and able folks trekked to Dumbo in order to taste Serralunga’s best Barolo Crus and raise some cash for the badly damaged Governor restaurant.  Like a great many people and businesses, Governor was ravaged by Hurricane Sandy.  The damage was very extensive but spirits remain high for chef Brad McDonald and Co.  There have been several events planned to help raise some funds for the restaurant, and Brad hopes to have things open, albeit on a limited basis, early in tthe new year.

Levi Dalton & Brad McDonald

Chef Brad McDonald of Governor and Levi Dalton hold court.

Besides that fact that this event raised cash for someone who really needs it, and the fact that we all got to hang with Levi, we learned a lot about Serralunga Barolo’s.  There were several producers that I already knew pretty well, but a few that I had never experienced.  All the wines were great, and different.  It as illuminating to see the differences between producers and crus side by side.  And Levi’s knowledge on the subject is first rate as he has personally visited all the producers we tried.  That hands on experience of walking the vineyards and tasting in the cellars is priceless.

Brovia & Conterno

A couple proper Serralunga stars.

Luigi Pira “Margheria” Barolo 2007

From the modernist school (short maceration and barrique) the fruit is ample.  It’s 2007 so that certainly plays a part as well.  There is no perceptible wood but the fruits are ripe with a pie berry nose, sweet red and blue fruits.  The mouth feel is nice, and tannins are ample enough without being overpowering.  The finish is a bit curt however.  Easy enough to like.  RECOMMENDED

Poderi Oddero “Vigna Rionda” Barolo 2004

Vigna Rionda is a special cru within Serralunga and Oddero certainly produces one of the finest examples.  There are sweet dark cherries, hers, lace, and a sanguine mouth feel.  The finish is long and the tannins are moderately firm.  This is lovely stuff from a fantastic producers experience a renaissance.  HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Schiavenza “Broglio” Barolo 2006

One of the more singular noses, the 2006 Broglio has earth, olives, tapenade, and dark dark red fruits.  The perfume is musky gorgeousness and the tannins are biggish.  Dark chocolate and dried fruits also come to mind.  Schiavneza racks there wines more than most in Barolo, and Levi reckons that this contributes to the mature aromatics.  Reminded me a smidge of traditional Rioja.  I like.  HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Massolino “Parafada” Barolo 2007

Massolino has been changing things up in recent vintages, moving from barrique to larger barrels and extended maceration times.  There is a butterscotch nose, with cherry red fruit, and touch of olive and under brush.  The mouth feel is all pretty red fruit.  Very 2007 style.  RECOMMENDED

Levi drew this realistic scale map by hand.

Levi drew this realistic scale map by hand.

Vietti “Lazzarito” Barolo 2003

Red cherry fruits, blue fruits, and hints of wood dominate.  It is pretty and balanced, and the wood is present, but fairly well integrated.  Vietti typically uses wood of various sizes and is a mix of modern and traditional.  I tend find Vietti wines to be easy to like, and you can take that any way you like.  RECOMMENDED

Boasso “Gabutti” Barolo 2004

Somewhat tight on the nose.  There is lavender, liquorish, and dark fruits on the nose.  This is very classically made Barolo.  It seems to be build for the distance.  HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Brovia “ca’ mia” Barolo 2005 (Brea Vineyard)

Dark fruits, earth, and spice dominate the Brovia “ca’ mia” 2005.  The mouth feel is harmonious and the wine seems young but willing to go the distance.  Love Brovia.  HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Giacomo Conterno “Cascina Francia” Barolo 2005

The nose reads very green on the Cascina Francia 2005.  But this is not a bad thing at all.  There is rhubarb, stems, roses.  The red fruit is tart and lean.  It reminds me a bit of Burgundy here with this profile.  Love to see where this one goes.  HIGHLY RECOMMENDED