The Catherine & Dominique Derain 2009 Mercurey is under the radar, natural (organic + biodynamic) Burgundy, and it’s the real deal.  This all coming from the Pinot hater.  But I was impressed with the range of Derain wines at the Jenny & Francois portfolio tasting, and had been curious to enjoy a bottle in the comfort of my own home over a meal and see if the initial impression rang true, or even improved.  I am happy to report that the initial impression was correct, and the hope for further improvement and development were also confirmed.  The Derain Mercurey is real deal Burgundy, and it is young at this stage, yet quite complex with time and air over the course of an evening.  Not an everyday wine at $50 buck a pop, but worth it for an occasional Burgundy treat.  In a genre (Burgundy) which is frequently disappointing, Catherine & Dominique Derain are keeping it real.

From the Jenny & Francois website:  “Dominique Derain was a barrel maker who decided to start making wine and while studying winemaking in Beaune he met his wife Catherine. In ’88 they purchased 5.5 hectares of vines in Saint Aubin and began making wine. Their first vintage was in ’89 and the rest, as they say, is biodynamic winemaking history.”

Catherine & Dominique Derain “Le Plante Chassey” 2009 Mercurey – $49.00

Tart red dark fruits, hints of volcanic smoke, nuts, pomegranate, cherry spice, figgy pudding meets fruit cake, with spearmint freshness and lift, yet some grippy tannins to resolve on the tail end.  A tad pricey, but good stuff.  The real deal.  HIGHLY RECOMMENDED